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89

2007 Produttori del Barbaresco - Nebbiolo Langhe
The 2007 Nebbiolo delle Langhe is an especially ripe, full-bodied wine from the Produttori. Sweet, enticing aromas lead to an opulent core fruit. This is an incredibly concentrated wine with superb depth and tons of style, all within the context of traditionally-made Nebbiolo. The richness of the fruit completely covers the tannins, making this an incredibly accessible young Nebbiolo. The Produttori's Nebbiolo delle Langhe is the estate's third selection from 100% Barbaresco-designated vineyards – usually younger vines – aged in cask. It wasn’t that many years ago that the Nebbiolo was a highly inconsistent wine. Today, it is arguably the finest value in Langhe Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017.


(Tasted Aug 4, 2010)
95

2004 Poggione - Brunello di Montalcino
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is awesome. This finessed, regal Brunello flows onto the palate with seamless layers of perfumed fruit framed by silky, finessed tannins. The wine remains extremely primary at this stage, and its full range of aromas and flavors have yet to emerge, but the sheer pedigree of this Brunello is unmistakable. The elegant, refined finish lasts an eternity, and subtle notes of menthol, spices, licorice and leather add final notes of complexity. The estate’s 2004 Brunello is a wine to buy and bury in the deepest corner of the cellar. Brunello is never inexpensive, but this is the real deal, and in relative terms, it is one of the world’s great values in fine, cellar worthy wine. Incredibly, there are 18,000+ cases of the 2004 Brunello, so it should be fairly easy to source in various markets. The Brunello is made from four vineyards ranging from 250 to 400 meters in altitude, all in Sant’Angelo in Colle. The wines from the various vineyards were aged separately in French oak casks prior to being assembled and bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. I was completely blown away by the wines I tasted from Il Poggione this year. Readers who want to experience first-class Sangiovese from Montalcino won’t want to miss these exceptional wines. Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his team have done an exceptional job for which they deserve all the praise in the world.


(Tasted Aug 4, 2010)
92

2006 Mitolo - Cabernet Sauvignon Jester
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon "Jester" includes 20% dried grapes in the style of Amarone. Purple-colored, it has a fragrant bouquet of black fruits, tar, and violets. This leads to a smooth-textured, layered, dense wine with enough structure to evolve for 4-6 years. It has a long, pure finish and can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years. It is a superb value in Cabernet Sauvignon. Mitolo, which began operations in 1999, is a partnership of the Mitolo family and winemaker Ben Glaetzer. The focus is on McLaren Vale fruit from Willunga, the most southern part of the district. All of the wines below are from the 2006 vintage which Glaetzer characterizes as "?a mild growing season with no problems. It ranks with 2002 as my favorite vintage".


(Tasted Aug 4, 2010)
92

2005 Glaetzer - Shiraz/Grenache Wallace
The 2005 Wallace is 80% Shiraz from 65-year-old vines and 20% Grenache from 90-year-old bush vines. It spent 14 months in seasoned French and American oak. It exhibits a lovely perfume of cedar, tobacco, damp earth, black cherry and blueberry. This leads to a concentrated, structured wine with ripe blue and black fruit flavors, well-concealed tannin, and a long finish. This excellent value can be enjoyed over the next 8-10 years. Hats off to Ben Glaetzer for producing an extraordinary portfolio! The renowned winemaker, Ben Glaetzer, sources all of his fruit for this label from the Ebenezer district in the northern Barossa. Many knowledgeable experts cite this sub-region as the finest in the Valley


(Tasted Aug 4, 2010)
90

2005 Fondreche - Cuvee Nadal
Revisiting the 2005 Nadal, this wine has hardly budged in evolution since I tasted it last year. It is an outstanding wine, not as succulent and fruit-forward as the 2006, but elegant and structured, with a dark ruby/purple color, and excellent purity and depth. If the 2006 is a hedonist’s delight, the 2005 is a structuralist’s thrill.


(Tasted Aug 4, 2010)

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