2005 Latour - Les Forts de Latour Bordeaux Blend - France - Bordeaux - Pauillac - Red

($220) Good red-ruby. Exotic aromas of roasted plum, currant and graphite. Big, round and sweet but with the broad shoulders of the year. The silky flavors of currant, tobacco and sweet oak show extraordinary baby fat and volume. Wonderfully rich, expressive wine with a very long, silky, aromatic back end. "Better than the 2007 Latour today, and almost as long," says Engerer. (The 2006 Forts de Latour had just been fined.)

Dark colour, great lustre, nose big and tight, spicy new wood, quite open, dark fruits, minerally and coffee/chocolate, dark shoe leather polish, clean crisp and well balanced palate, young; although approachable now, fine elegant and long. Very good. (RS)

The 2005 Forts de Latour (10,000 cases produced) possesses much of the same character as Latour, but sweeter tannins, more obvious and forward fruit, medium to full body, and a more seductive, plusher style, but not the great stature, richness, and architectural precision of its bigger brother. Nevertheless, it is a gorgeous Pauillac that should drink well for two decades or more.

Shows blackberry, coffee, cedar, and raisin on the nose, turning to licorice and fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with refined, silky tannins and a long finish. Balanced and juicy. Builds on the palate, with currant, licorice and mineral character, followed by a powerful finish. An amazing second wine. 13,330 cases made.

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