2004 Kistler - Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay - USA - California - Carneros - Carneros/Napa - White

($65) Light gold. Expansive, highly complex aromas of orange, pear, quince, sweet butter, marzipan and iodine reminded me of a really great Meursault. Intense spice- and mineral-accented citrus flavors, with an exotic beeswax note adding depth. Focused and pure on the finish, which has outstanding concentration and length. The only thing that could chase this off my palate was the next wine.

The light gold-hued 2004 Chardonnay Hudson E-Block (500 cases from the famed E-Block made famous by Helen Turley) possesses lively acidity, gorgeous depth as well as richness, and a full-bodied, smoky, tropical fruit-filled (especially pineapple) personality. The wood component is well-integrated, and the alcohol content is 14.5%. For Steve Kistler and his longtime assistant, Mark Bixler, 2004 was a very small crop, even smaller than the modest production of 2003. This is a reference point winery for New World Chardonnay, although their viticultural and winemaking techniques are decidedly Burgundian. Interestingly, during the last year I have had an opportunity to taste some ten year old Kistler Chardonnays, and they have aged well in the bottle. While a decade is not long when compared with some long-lived white Burgundies, by the standards of most California Chardonnays, which are generally best consumed during their first 1-3 years of life, the Kistler techniques of whole cluster pressing, slow malolactic fermentation, aging on their lees in high quality French oak, and bottling without fining or filtration appear to be producing longer lived Chardonnays. Kistler has enjoyed a run of terrific vintages in the new century. Moreover, they seem to be ratcheting up their performance in terms of the quality and complexity of their Pinot Noirs. (Release date 3/07)

Smoky, toasty aromas pick up rich citrus, pear and apple flavors on the palate in a tight, sharply focused manner, with the fruit and oak fanning out on the finish. Drink now. 915 cases made.

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