Browning, the concentration of colour suggesting a darker brown than it perhaps is (c.f. the 1999). The nose of raisins, honey, and musk manages to seem fresher than the 1998 or 1999. On the palate the freshness is evident (though nothing like the burst of the 2007, of course) showing what perfectly mature Aria is all about. The weightiest of the 4 wines, there is a faint oiliness to the texture which is very appealing. The wine remains balanced between sweet front and clean back, a hint of fruit, but mostly bottle-age flavours dominate. Drink now.